Issue No 620

Published 27 Nov 2023

Somalis and the story of sugar

Published on 27 Nov 2023 13:13 min
Somalis and the story of sugar
 
Sweet-toothed Somalis are the Horn of Africa's biggest consumers of refined sugar, with visitors to the Horn often astonished at the quantity of sugar the average Somali consumes. Every day, young and old drink copious cups of 'shaah' – a spiced milky tea made with cinnamon, ginger and cardamom and heavily saturated in sugar. An instant energy drink; nomads on foot adore it, and poems have even extolled shaah's health benefits. For those chewing khat, 'shaah' is turned into 'bigeeys,' another spiced tea with even more sugar. 
 
A Somali legend, likely apocryphal, encapsulates the Somali love for sugar. The story goes that a clan bought several bags of sugar from a trader and, loving its taste so much, decided to pour some into the village's water wells "so that our camels can produce sugary milk." But the wells are deep, and two men perish while mixing the well water with sugar. The bantering legend is also used to depict the clan as foolish.
  
Sugar has astonishingly varied uses in Somali society, with shaah far from the only nourishment saturated with sugar. Many love 'anjeero'-- a light pancake typically eaten in the morning. Anjeero can be eaten sweet or savoury; it is often served with goat liver, known as 'beer,' as well as sugar, honey, and ghee.
 
Somali's love of sugar dates back centuries, most likely a culinary influence from trade with the Ottoman Empire. Ottoman traditional 'halva' sweets were bartered across the Middle East and into Somalia, where they are still made today. Known as 'halwa' in Somalia, its ingredients and complex recipe are tightly guarded and passed down through the generations. Halwa's ingredients typically include whey, ghee, sugar, cardamom, saffron, and rose water, and is served as a dessert.
 
During Eid festivals, tonnes of halwa are distributed to children, and every diaspora Somali who visits Somalia must return with a packet of traditional halwa wrapped in palm leaves. The age-old question of which port city makes the best halwa has never been settled, with Kismaayo, Baidoa, and Malindi all claiming bragging rights.
 
We do not know exactly when sugar arrived in the Somali peninsula, but sugar cane cultivation originated in ancient India. Many words for sugar also find their roots in the Sanskrit word 'sarkara,' including the Arabic word for sugar, 'sukkar,' and Somali, 'sokor.' In the Mercantile Age, when the East Coast of Africa was at the centre of global trade routes, sugar became a commodity in high demand. Indian, Persian, and Arab merchants would trade sugar with frankincense, myrrh, rare birds, and ivory with communities along Somalia's coast.
 
Today, Somalis are not only sugar consumers—they are also the Horn's largest traders of the sweet stuff. Since the collapse of the Somali state in 1991, Somali ports have become major transit points for illicit sugar smuggling into East and Central Africa. Sugar, largely Brazilian, smuggled through Somalia is often cheaper than the sugar produced by millers in East Africa. The collapse of sugar mills in Kenya due to poor management and corruption has further boosted the demand for Somali sugar. While Kenyan officials have long chafed about the sabotaging of the local sugar industry, Somalis retort that their in-demand sugar sells at a competitive price.
 
The cross-border sugar trade is complex, involving shadowy barons with links to the political elite in Somalia and Kenya. Al-Shabaab and other armed actors in southern Somalia also generate handsome revenues from taxing lorries transporting sugar to Kenya. In Nairobi, there is a popular saying that "every tablespoon of sugar consumed in Kenya is taxed by Al-Shabaab."
 
While sugar may bind together meals and Somali hospitality, the side effects on people's health are not so rosy. In northern Kenya and the Somali Regional State of Ethiopia, public health officials have been conducting campaigns to raise awareness about the health risks of high sugar consumption with little success. Type II diabetes, often associated with high sugar intake, is sadly widespread in Somali communities in the Horn.
 
In many ways, sugar encapsulates much of Somali society and history. Transcending borders and lifestyles, sugar-based foodstuffs like halwa and anjeero tie together nomadic and diasporic communities alike. Halwa connects Somalia to its storied position on the eastern edge of Africa and the gateway to the Ottoman Empire and beyond. But sugar smuggling today also reflects the struggles of Somalia in the 21st century, and the grip Al-Shabaab holds over illicit trade in southern Somalia. While the advent of globalisation and mass-produced chocolate and sweets may have brought new products to Somalia's shores, there can be no replacement for the traditional sugary food that brings Somali families together.
 
By the Somali Wire team

To continue reading, create a free account or log in.

Gain unlimited access to all our Editorials. Unlock Full Access to Our Expert Editorials — Trusted Insights, Unlimited Reading.

Create your Sahan account Login

Unlock lifetime access to all our Premium editorial content

You may also be interested in

Issue No. 129
Centring North Eastern Kenya - The Rise Of Kenya's Ethnic Somalis
The Horn Edition

A president does not pay a visit to Wajir by accident. When William Samoei Ruto chose Wajir as the centre stage for Kenya’s Madaraka Day celebrations on 1 June — the first sitting president to do so — he was not merely varying the ceremonial calendar. He was making a premeditated statement about who belongs at the centre of Kenya’s state and who no longer belongs at its margins. The message was not merely ‘taking Nairobi to NorthEastern.’ It was the centring and mainstreaming of an ethnic Somali-dominated region that, for much of Kenya’s post-colonial history, has been treated as a security issue rather than a political constituency.


28:45 min read 26 Jun
Issue No. 962
Somaliland’s Recognition Angst
The Somali Wire

Somaliland President Abdirahman Irro’s trip to Israel in June (from 14-17) was far more than symbolism. Not only was it a calculated strategic diplomatic play, and a chance for Somaliland to appear on the world stage, but also an opportunity for Somaliland to present itself as a fully-functional state, able to conduct foreign relations and cut bilateral deals. Irro, a seasoned former diplomat, navigated the intricate demands of state protocol with remarkable ease - cutting an immaculate, regal figure in his navy-blue suit. Accorded full head-of-state honours, he laid a wreath at the Theodore Herzl mausoleum, engaged in high-level talks with President Isaac Herzog and Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, opened the new Somaliland embassy in Jerusalem and convened meetings with Knesset members, senior officials, and business leaders. For Israel, hosting President Abdirahman Irro in Jerusalem functioned to signal its strong commitment to deepening strategic ties while also countering perceptions of waning diplomatic momentum.


22:37 min read 24 Jun
Issue No. 961
Deciphering Al-Shabaab's Radio Silence
The Somali Wire

Never interrupt your enemy when they are making a mistake. Napoleon Bonaparte’s classic rule of combat seems to be the guiding doctrine behind Al-Shabaab’s sudden, uncharacteristic radio silence as Mogadishu’s political elite tear themselves apart. As the ‘government-in-waiting’, one would have assumed the militants would take full advantage of its adversaries’ internal divisions, maximising the propaganda opportunities this offers, and campaign for their own cause. Typically quick to weaponise any intra-Somali division, the militant group's decision to sit out the latest intra-Somali fracturing is intriguing. By withholding its usual blitz of propaganda, the group is playing a longer, quieter game - waiting for the federal house to implode further before stepping in.


20 min read 17 Jun
Issue No. 960
The Galmudug Vote – The Next Powder Keg
The Somali Wire

While much international attention is on Mogadishu – understandably so - another electoral crisis is brewing in the regional state of Galmudug. Historically unstable, prone to Al-Shabaab violence and destabilisation and wracked by chronic inter-clan frictions and periodic armed hostilities, the looming vote appears likely to aggravate the situation and foment more divisions.


7:13 min read 10 Jun
Issue No. 959
Mogadishu on the Edge: The Danger Has Not Passed
The Somali Wire

Two days of heavy clashes (3–4 June) in the Somali capital, Mogadishu, between federal troops and opposition-aligned forces have underscored both the fragility of the city’s security environment and the volatility of electoral politics. Although relative calm has since returned to the two hardest-hit districts - Hawl Wadaag and Abdiaziz - and mediation efforts have intensified, tensions remain high, fuelling fears of renewed armed skirmishes. Credible reports of mass clan militia mobilisation on the edges of Mogadishu speak to a conflict that is widening. The militarisation of politics and elite fragmentation over the electoral process have shattered a core assumption: that Somali leaders will ultimately step back from the brink to negotiate a way forward. Consequently, the country is entering a perilous phase in which domestic factions alone cannot resolve the impasse, making neutral, external mediation a necessity.


10:12 min read 08 Jun
Issue No. 958
Deni and the Tough Road Back to Mogadishu
The Somali Wire

Puntland President Sa'id Abdullah Deni is unofficially in the race for the federal presidency of Somalia. By most accounts, the regional leader is running again and this explains his re-engagement with Mogadishu after a three-year hiatus. Driven by shifting electoral dynamics, Deni’s decision to re-engage with the centre forces him to confront a radically altered political landscape in Mogadishu. Under President Hassan Sheikh Mohamud (HSM), the federal government has rewritten the rules of Somali politics, altering the institutional framework and consolidating executive authority.


8:08 min read 03 Jun
Issue No. 128
The US Eritrea Pivot – Opportunities, Risks, Dilemma
The Horn Edition

A flurry of media reports in recent months suggest the US and Eritrea could be inching towards a potential deal to reset decades of frosty relations and a partial lifting of American sanctions imposed in 2021. The news of discreet talks between the two sides, mediated by Egypt, was initially reported by the influential Washington Post newspaper in April 2026 and have since been partially confirmed by official sources.


34:56 min read 29 May
Issue No. 957
How Somalia's South West Vote Went South
The Somali Wire

On 10 May, the Federal Government of Somalia (FGS) unilaterally conducted its contentious 'one-person-one-vote' (OPOV) electoral model in South West State (SWS), directly overriding opposition demands for a negotiated, consensus-based framework. Crucially, the very laws underpinning these OPOV elections are themselves deeply contested: the electoral framework was created following a rushed revision of Somalia’s constitution that many federal member states and opposition groups rejected. The vote, exclusively managed by the National Independent Electoral and Boundaries Commission (NIEBC), saw localised polling in 13 districts and across 126 poll centres and 276 stations. While 376,212 citizens were registered, actual turnout reached 132,430 voters - a participation rate of approximately 35.2% - with 128,276 valid ballots cast and 4,154 deemed spoilt/invalid. The electoral outcome, unsurprisingly, solidified a decisive mandate for Hassan Sheikh Mohamud’s Justice and Solidarity Party (JSP); the governing party secured an absolute majority of 51 out of 95 contested legislative seats, comfortably outpacing its closest rival, Sharif Hassan Sheikh Aden’s Ururka Horumarka, which claimed 14 seats.


17:12 min read 27 May
Issue No. 956
The Perils of a Grey Transition
The Somali Wire

The Federal Government of Somalia (FGS) has effectively entered a 'grey transition' - a deeply fraught and hotly-contested interregnum that could upend decades of state-building and foment greater instability. By utilising the March 2026 constitutional amendments to extend his presidential mandate until May 2027, Hassan Sheikh Mohamud (HSM) has effectively plunged the fragile Horn of Africa state into a profound period of severe internal strain and legitimacy crisis. This legalistic manoeuvre has roiled domestic politics and put Western partners of Somalia in a difficult spot. If Somalia's Western allies concede to HSM's fait accompli without extracting concessions from him on a negotiated settlement, they are likely to embolden Hassan Sheikh.


0 min read 20 May
Scroll